A January Swell

It's been a couple months since I felt that anticipation of knowing there would be waves when I woke up in the morning. I'm new to the surf community and I'm not currently a surfer myself, but as a photographer, there's a special kind of butterfly that flies through my stomach when I wake up early to catch sunrise on the day of the latest swell.

I'm 29 years old and have been living in Manasquan, New Jersey for just about 5 months. I'm in the world of surf. I've never experienced it before. The way people describe waves; the etiquette among surfers in the water; knowing the surf spots; learning how to read the reports; it's all new. And it's exciting.

On Monday January 19th, 2015 my plan was to wake up to catch the sunrise on the beach in Manasquan and then head to another location in Monmouth County known to really fire with the swell that was predicted. I was up at 6:00am with no alarm clock. Something that doesn't happen often. I layered up and headed down to the inlet. Winter is a bitch. I hate the effort it takes to get dressed and all the peripherals; the hats and scarves and gloves. I'm more of a t-shirt, jeans, and flip flops kind of guy. But I endure it to be by the ocean. To be as close as I can to the waves and sun.

First light is on the horizon as I pull into my spot at the inlet. There's one other car there. I don't mind sharing this special spot with others, but I also love when I have it all to myself. I'm a little selfish I guess. With many people off from school and work for the holiday, I fully expect the inlet to fill up as the morning progresses. As I get out of my car, I can't see the water yet, but I hear that sound. The indescribable sound of water crashing on top of water.

As I get up to the beach, I can see the waves. It's pretty clear that the swell that was predicted is in full swing. Nice and clean, chest to head high sets.

The beach landscape is always changing. I never get bored with it. Today, as the tide is falling, there are little pools that have formed behind a sandbar, being fed every so often with more salt water as the bigger waves come through. I always seem to be drawn to reflections and these pools provide a perfect setting to capture just that.

As the sun gets closer to peaking over the horizon, the color in the sky gets more vivid. A couple of surfers head out in the water. I'm amazed at the motivation and dedication of these people. And yet I'm not surprised. Air temperatures are in the low 30's with a 5-10 mph wind out of the west. It's cold, but it's certainly been colder out here.

With the sun actually peaking above the horizon, I decide to get on top of the jetty. I've shot many photos from on top of those rocks in my few short months in Manasquan. When I share photos from on top of the jetty, it seems to arouse a sense of nostalgia for so many who've visited Manasquan or have lived here in the past.  It is truly one of those iconic Jersey Shore landmarks.

The jetty is one of those few places where you can be among the waves. Seemingly in the water, but on dry land. I see the unobtrusive bulges out beyond the far end of the rocks become taller and more shapely. In a few seconds they form beautiful faces and the wind begins to blow their spray over the top and back. And then they crash. It's a really amazing sight to witness.

As some high clouds come through and obstruct the sun, I decide it's time to head to the other location of the morning. Friends who've been kind enough to guide me and invite me into their world have trusted me with the knowledge of this location. I hop in the car and go. 

Photography, kind of like surfing, is about being in the right place at the right time. Especially when it comes to sunrises, sunsets, and landscapes. Where should I go? Will it be too cloudy? Is it worth it for me to get up? Sometimes the risk is worth the reward. Sometimes you get skunked. Much like anything else, experience is key. Through friends who've been surfing the beaches of Monmouth and Ocean counties for years, I've been able to be in the right place at the right time to capture some amazing swells. 

I arrive at my second location, now fully caffeinated with PowerBar in hand. I see a mustachioed man waxing down his bright red board behind his Jeep Cherokee on the side street where everybody is parked. Mike Hughes. He runs up to may car, so stoked to see me. I am excited to see him too. I park and he introduces me to his buddy Shawn. We chit-chat for a bit then head up to the beach. There are already a dozen or so folks out in the water. We spend a minute or two checking out the conditions and line-up. 

Mike and Shawn head out into the frigid water, fully wet-suited up with gloves, hood, and boots. Mike is excited. He paddles out and wastes no time picking up the first wave he can. I am new to this world, but I have seen that nothing can excite a surfer like waves. A light comes alive in their eyes. 

Some of the guys have paddled out in the water by a little unorganized jetty of rocks but, most of the guys in the water are down the beach to north a bit. The waves are breaking nice by the rocks, but the swell looks like it's breaking better to the north. I decide to walk down a bit. There are some surfers, but lots of body-boarders. There are waves too. But everybody is eager to score one. Folks are getting some nice rides. Lots of rights. I also notice a lot of drop ins.

I'm starting to get tired. It's pushing 11:00am and I've been out taking photos since about 6:45am. However, the sun decides to come out again and gives me some extra juice. I have a little more space left on my memory card and decide I'm going to stick around until I fill it up. I had the same thing happen during the Gonzalo swell. Getting to be outside taking photos is one of those things I could do until I pass out. I can forgo food, water, sleep. Fortunately, the battery on my camera or my memory card always craps out before I do. 

Now with the sun out, I try to get a different perspective. I decide to shoot from those rocks from earlier, looking back north. 

With my memory card full and my mind and body sleepy, I say my goodbyes. I go back to my car to head home. 

I look forward to the warmer days. However, up until recently, I had no idea that there was such a vibrant and active community of surfers right my own backyard. A community that is able to rise above the seemingly mundane and brutal winter. Where there are thick wetsuits, there will be surfers. I am honored and excited to be exploring this new world for the first time.