January 11th, 2016
Since moving down the shore last summer, one of my favorite subjects to photograph has become surf. The ocean has always been a sacred place for me. And through out my time down here, I've grown to really enjoy a facet of the surfing I never really knew existed: winter surf.
All last week I noticed that both Sunday and Monday had potential. I generally keep an eye on surf forecasts but also check it against wind guidance from weather reports. I've also been fortunate to have some friends in the surf community who have been willing to take me under their wing and show me some amazing spots. I've had the opportunity to photograph some great swells over the last year and a half. And all I can say is this:
Monday, January 11th, 2016 was an amazing day.
For this swell, I chose to stay local. My backyard is one of the most beautiful beaches and iconic locations on the Jersey Shore. While I've traveled up and down the shore to different locations for different swells, I'd been running around quite a bit in my personal life over the previous couple of weeks. My body told me to stay put.
I started Monday morning early enough to catch the sunrise. It was first light as I pulled up. There was one other person checking the surf. The air temperature was in the 20s with a strong 15-20mph west wind. Wind chills were in the teens and single digits.
It's hard to describe the peace and solitude of cold winter mornings on the beach. It feels like walking on the moon. It's such a stark contrast to summer months. Winter seems to bring out the dedicated; those who have a very special connection to the ocean. I don't know why I stand on the beach for hours at a time in the freezing cold. The only answer I have is passion.
As the sky grows brighter, I move onto the jetty. The wind is really whipping up there. Luckily, with a strong west wind, while I am facing the sun, the wind is at my back. I have fleece pants on under my jeans, and I can still feel the wind piercing through to my legs. My face also stings. But I catch the first glimpse of the sun over the horizon. No matter how many times I witness that, it always gives me goosebumps.
One of the things this swell does not have going for it is cooperation with the tides. It's practically high tide, and my location is not performing as hoped. I get a text from a friend saying that where he's at is really pumping just a bit north.
I get in my car and head up the coast a little bit. I arrive and immediately see what he's talking about; 4-5 foot sets with amazing peaks and peeling rights. I head out onto the beach and I see a bunch of black wetsuits on white boards in the water.
I spent about 2 hours shooting at this location until my memory card is full. After this I head back to my house to thaw out for a bit and download my shots. I decide I'm not done and want to head to one more location. I have an inkling that one spot in particular may be going off. After conferring with a buddy of mine, I throw my scarf, hat and gloves back on and venture back out.
When I arrive, I am so happy I made the decision to go back out. The surf is PUMPING. One after another, surfers are getting barreled. I shoot sequence after sequence of surfers in tubes so deep I can barely see them in there. But I know they're there.
Again, I stick around for another 2 hours or so. I run into some familiar faces like Clay Pollioni, Ryan Russo, and body boarder Chris Schlegel. As the tide goes out, folks begin to clear out. I decide it's time to pack it in. It's time to thaw out and take a nap.
I don't know how or why at the age of 30, I'm finally finding passion in a community I never knew existed. All I can say is that I am grateful that I found it.
All last week I noticed that both Sunday and Monday had potential. I generally keep an eye on surf forecasts but also check it against wind guidance from weather reports. I've also been fortunate to have some friends in the surf community who have been willing to take me under their wing and show me some amazing spots. I've had the opportunity to photograph some great swells over the last year and a half. And all I can say is this:
Monday, January 11th, 2016 was an amazing day.
For this swell, I chose to stay local. My backyard is one of the most beautiful beaches and iconic locations on the Jersey Shore. While I've traveled up and down the shore to different locations for different swells, I'd been running around quite a bit in my personal life over the previous couple of weeks. My body told me to stay put.
I started Monday morning early enough to catch the sunrise. It was first light as I pulled up. There was one other person checking the surf. The air temperature was in the 20s with a strong 15-20mph west wind. Wind chills were in the teens and single digits.
It's hard to describe the peace and solitude of cold winter mornings on the beach. It feels like walking on the moon. It's such a stark contrast to summer months. Winter seems to bring out the dedicated; those who have a very special connection to the ocean. I don't know why I stand on the beach for hours at a time in the freezing cold. The only answer I have is passion.
As the sky grows brighter, I move onto the jetty. The wind is really whipping up there. Luckily, with a strong west wind, while I am facing the sun, the wind is at my back. I have fleece pants on under my jeans, and I can still feel the wind piercing through to my legs. My face also stings. But I catch the first glimpse of the sun over the horizon. No matter how many times I witness that, it always gives me goosebumps.
One of the things this swell does not have going for it is cooperation with the tides. It's practically high tide, and my location is not performing as hoped. I get a text from a friend saying that where he's at is really pumping just a bit north.
I get in my car and head up the coast a little bit. I arrive and immediately see what he's talking about; 4-5 foot sets with amazing peaks and peeling rights. I head out onto the beach and I see a bunch of black wetsuits on white boards in the water.
I spent about 2 hours shooting at this location until my memory card is full. After this I head back to my house to thaw out for a bit and download my shots. I decide I'm not done and want to head to one more location. I have an inkling that one spot in particular may be going off. After conferring with a buddy of mine, I throw my scarf, hat and gloves back on and venture back out.
When I arrive, I am so happy I made the decision to go back out. The surf is PUMPING. One after another, surfers are getting barreled. I shoot sequence after sequence of surfers in tubes so deep I can barely see them in there. But I know they're there.
Again, I stick around for another 2 hours or so. I run into some familiar faces like Clay Pollioni, Ryan Russo, and body boarder Chris Schlegel. As the tide goes out, folks begin to clear out. I decide it's time to pack it in. It's time to thaw out and take a nap.
I don't know how or why at the age of 30, I'm finally finding passion in a community I never knew existed. All I can say is that I am grateful that I found it.
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